Eric and I are from the
IRIS/PASSCAL Instrument Center (PIC) located on the campus of New Mexico Tech
in Socorro, New Mexico. IRIS/PASSCAL is funded through the National Science
Foundation (NSF) and the PIC is basically a lending library of seismological
equipment for NSF funded researchers. In addition to providing equipment for
research experiments, we also provide user training as well as field support
for the equipment, which brings Eric and I to North Carolina.
Supporting the equipment on
a large experiment like ENAM is a bit of “hurry-up and wait” for us. We program
all the recorders, RT125A “Texan” dataloggers, with the gains, sample rates,
and times to start and stop recording data and help the deployment teams get
their equipment loaded in their vehicles and sent off in the mornings, that’s
the hurry-up part. But then there is the wait until the equipment is picked
back up and returned, after the shots, when we offload the data (another
hurry-up part).
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Early morning, deployment day. The ENAM
instrument center is located at an old VOA radio station so there are large
antennas all around the site
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“Bix” Magnani, one of the PI’s, on the left, and
Eric Makarewicz on the right, helping Jonathan Ward, of Deployment Team 6, get
their boxes of equipment.
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Loading up a vehicle under another antenna.
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The equipment is packed and ready to go…
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… and Team 6, Kameron Ortiz and Jonathan Ward, is
ready to go too!
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During the wait part
though, if possible, we try to explore the local area a little bit. When Bix and Dan Lizarralde, one of the other
PI’s, did not need us for the rest of the day Eric and I headed out on our
adventure.
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Passing more antennas as we head out.
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Eric had not seen the
Atlantic Ocean yet, so we headed for Cape Hatteras. The trees and greenery of North Carolina is a
huge switch from our normal brown, red and sandy New Mexico scenery. We enjoyed
seeing large swaths of daylilies and sunflowers along the road, but we were
really struck by the open expanse of water when we crossed the drawbridge over
the Alligator River. Being used to dry New Mexico, crossing water as far as we
could see, with tiny sailboats dotting the horizon, was a real treat.
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Water! Crossing the drawbridge over Alligator River.
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Following the
recommendations of the Roanoke Island Visitor Center’s guide, upon reaching the
seashore we made our first stop at the Bodie Island lighthouse. The lighthouse was built in 1872 and has it’s
original Fresnel lens. There used to be two other lighthouses further south but
due to the changing shoreline those locations are now out at sea. The
lighthouse was opened to the public in 2013 so Eric and I were able to climb
the 200 plus steps of the metal spiral staircase, about 10 stories to the top,
and see the great view with the bonus of a cool ocean breeze (it was hot inside
the lighthouse while climbing the stairs, and in fact it was closed to climbers
later in the day because it was to hot). Talking with one ranger, he told us he
climbs the stairs about 24 times a day! While climbing the stairs, we
speculated what it would have been like to build the staircase. Each metal step
was bolted to the next and to slender metal posts coming down from the spiral
handrail. I don’t know if it was, but the whole thing appeared to be free
standing inside the tower. We imagined
the builders attaching the steps one to the next, slowly moving up one step at
a time, standing on the step they’d just bolted on in order to install the next
step, with nothing but increasingly higher empty space in front of them.
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Bodie Island lighthouse.
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Eric on the observation platform at the top of Bodie
Island Light with the Atlantic Ocean behind him.
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Looking down the spiral staircase inside the
lighthouse.
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From the lighthouse, we
went across the road to Coquina beach.
We took our shoes off and climbed over the sand dunes to the water. Nearing the top of the dune some dark sand mixed
in with the light colored sand we’d started out in and the sand got quite hot. Our
walk over the dunes turned into a dash down to lighter colored sand again where
we threw ourselves down to get our blistered toes (really!) off the ground for
a few minutes before continuing and finally cooling our feet in the ocean.
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Eric’s feet, in the Atlantic Ocean for the first
time, at Coquina Beach.
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We became beachcombers for
a while, rolling up our pants legs, walking along the tide line turning over
washed up shells. We were entertained by
the sand crabs, peeping out of their holes, creeping up to the water’s edge,
and then scurrying back as the surf washed in. We saw dolphins, sea birds,
people fishing in the surf, and other people flying kites on the beach.
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Sand crab on Coquina Beach, …
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a dolphin (not shark), …
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… kite flying over the beach.
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The kites flying over the
beach were a good introduction to our next stop, the Wright Brothers National
Memorial at Kill Devil Hills. The excellent visitor center there walked us
through Orville and Wilbur’s years of experiments leading to finally successful
airplane flight, with letters, and excerpts from their notebooks, tools they
used, photographs, and actual pieces of propellers and engine blocks. It was
fascinating and really gave us a sense of their efforts and the magnitude of
what they accomplished. “They took what
was just an idea and made it real”, as Eric put it. When we saw the full size model of the plane,
how fragile it was (the wing was so light and thin that to turn they used
cables to pull on the end of the wing and actually deform its shape), and how
exposed the pilot was, Eric said he didn’t think he would have been willing to
donate his body to science like they did. We learned that Wilbur and Orville
flipped a coin to see who would try the first run.
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A model of the Wright Flyer at the Wright Brothers
National Memorial at Kill Devil Hills.
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The only things to hold the
pilot on the plane were a couple of small wooden uprights, one on either
side of the pilot’s body as he lay on the wing next to the engine, and a wooden
strip to brace his feet against. The brothers had to figure out how to control
the plane’s motion through the air, the yaw, pitch, and roll of the plane. They
didn’t know if it would work. If it did, they didn’t know how high the plane
would go. It was freezing cold in December with a 20 plus mile an hour wind
blasting them with blowing sand. They tossed their coin in the air and then
Wilbur laid himself across the wing between the little uprights – and took
off!
From the visitor center we
walked across the now grassy area where the first flights took place and up to
the top of Kill Devil Hill where a memorial tower stands.
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"In commemoration of the conquest of the air by
the brothers Wilbur and Orville Wright conceived by genius achieved by
dauntless resolution and unconquerable faith." – Inscription around the
base of the Wright Brothers Memorial Tower on Kill Devil Hill. The tower is 60
feet high.
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I was curious about the history
of the names for some of the places where we were, “Kill Devil Hills”, “Nags
Head”, but I kept forgetting to ask local people that we met about it. Eric
looked up Kill Devil Hills when we got back. Apparently, in the pirate and
buccaneer times that the Outer Banks are famous for, the rum that was always on
board the sailing ships was not very smooth and was referred to as “Kill
Devil”. When a ship would run aground, local scavengers would loot the ships
and frequently hide the stolen goods, including the rum, in the big sand dunes.
These rum filled sand hills then became known as Kill Devil Hills. The story of
Nags Head, again from that time, is that the locals would tie a lantern to a
gentle horse, a “nag”, and walk it slowly back and forth along the shore at
night. Ships at sea would think it was the light from a ship safely at anchor and
head in towards it only to run aground on the shoals, thus providing more
barrels of rum to stash in the sand dunes!
Eric and I had a nice late
lunch at a local spot in Nags Head and then heading back inland, making one
last stop in Roanoke. There we visited Fort Raleigh, which is where “The Lost
Colony” was lost. In 1584, with England in competition with Spain in the New
World, Sir Walter Raleigh led an expedition to find a place for a settlement, came
across Roanoke Island and thought it looked pretty good. A first attempt at
colonization in 1585 failed though, with the colonists basically hitching a
ride back to England when Sir Francis Drake happened to sail by, but a second
group of colonists arrived in 1587. They were headed to the Chesapeake Bay area
and only intended Roanoke to be a brief stopping point, but their ship’s pilot
refused to go any further, so they were stuck. They had increasing misunderstandings
and hostilities with the local Indians, and their food was dwindling, so they
sent their leader, John White, back to England on another passing ship to get
them more supplies. Unfortunately England and Spain went to war just then and
no ships could be spared for his return. John’s daughter, son-in-law, and
granddaughter, “the first English citizen born in America”, were left in
Roanoke though so he didn’t give up and he finally made it back three years
later – only to find all the colonists gone with just the word “CROATOAN”
carved on a tree. Croatoan is another outer bank island not too far south from
Roanoke, 65 miles by car, and less by ship. We were told that John White tried
to go on to Croatoan to look for his family and the other colonists “but a
storm forced him to return to England”. And with that short statement the “The
Lost Colony” disappeared into history and their fate is a mystery to this day. Our
conclusion was, it was really quite easy to become lost back then. We also went
by the waterfront in Manteo to look at the Elizabeth II, a sailing ship that
represents those like the colonists traveled to North Carolina in, from England,
in the 1580’s.
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The earthen works fortification at Fort Raleigh,
built by the 1585 expedition to Roanoke. We estimated it would be just about
standing room only if all ~110 colonists were inside.
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The “Elizabeth II”, at Roanoke Island Festival Park,
represents a 16th century merchant ship. At 69 feet in length,
imagine sailing for three months from England to America on a ship like this
with over a hundred other colonists plus the crew.
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Eric and I had a great day
exploring the coast of North Carolina. Back at the equipment center the next
day, the shots had gone off well over night, so we were in hurry-up mode again
offloading data. I thought our adventure was over, but when Team 6 brought
their instruments back in for offloading, Jonathan said that Eric and I,
connecting the hubs to the Texans, looked like the villains in a James Bond
movie working on our evil plans for global mayhem!
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“Texan” dataloggers offloading (aka SPECTRE tools for
world domination?)
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(Post by Bridget O'Neill)